The "couple a stepper motor to a shaft" API is so much better than any "smart" appliance API.

Speaking more seriously, I wish classes of appliances would expose some simple analog and digital interface pins in a standardized configuration to let users choose whatever automation or monitoring hardware they want. HVAC equipment does this with standardized thermostat terminals. I'd love to see that on other types of appliances, too.

The manufacturer's crappy "app" that will inevitably be abandoned and require keeping some old phone / tablet in good "health" lest you lose the "smart" functionality (or worse, any use of) the appliance.

Then current way of putting the "smarts" inside the appliance is just planned obsolescence and a recipe for all of us being eyeball deep in ewaste.

It's insane to me that some new construction buildings still use PTACs. Having used too many of those, this was a deal-breaker last time I was in the market for an apartment. Such a New York thing, just like how you cannot have a balcony on the 2nd floor, or how you won't find those sink garbage disposal grinders in any kitchen. But cross the Hudson toward NJ, and my understanding is that they're common. It's a combination of hyper-local regulations and economic incentives that date from god-knows-when and make American cities very unique in their quirks.

https://esphome.io/ would make the software side of this a 10 minute job

Maybe not as fun but my sun room window unit is controlled by an off the shelf $20 thermostat designed for Air Conditioners. It’s the LUX Win 100 and is date/time programmable and features a compressor lockout so it doesn’t burn out your window unit by short cycling.

If you have a favorite smart thermostat you could also wire up a receptacle with a contactor between it and a cord and a 24v AC transformer wired to the line side. This would make your window unit controllable just like a central air conditioner.

I don't understand why he can't just connect / disconnect the power? The thermostat is a bi-metallic strip.

Assuming the thermostat is controlling 120V AC:

1: There are plenty of cheap wireless thermostats for AC that you can buy off of Amazon. I have two, and they work great with space heaters.

2: You can use a 120V relay with those thermostats to control different voltages, amperages, ect.

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BTW, controlling the dial for min cool, max cool, ect, could increase efficiency. Max cool is only needed if the unit's been off, or it's a super-hot day.

Instead of attaching the motor bracket with a binder clip, consider sticking it down with some sort of removable adhesive?

3M command strips should be very strong/secure, while also allowing for adjustment and will detach without residue when the time comes.

As a renter myself, I get the author's pain. I ended up just installing this non destructive retrofit switch for most of my home automation + smart bulbs.

[1] https://www.thirdreality.com/products/smart-switch-gen3

I've wired ESP32s into all my old heat pump units using ESPHome. They are more reliable and more responsive than the $400 dongle they sold with newer units.

I can't offer praise for controlling a mechanical thermostat with a poorly-implemented software thermostat.

If this was a remote control knob it might begin to make sense, but it isn't.

A NYC apartment with a 115V PTAC is by definition the size of a shoebox, is twisting a knob twice a day really that much of a burden?

> The rest of this blog post is a walkthrough of a software engineer’s approach to home automation and building custom hardware, and let me tell you: both the final product, and the journey to get there, are hella jank.

IMHO it's not that bad? With the disclaimer that I'm also a software engineer who dabbles very very lightly with electronics and has no mechanical engineering expertise. But the overall approach of doing this by stepper motor seems quite defensible given the security deposit constraint. The only part that seems really janky to me is that it's not physically held in place that well as noted in this paragraph:

> Ultimately, the biggest issue is that binder clips and cardboard aren’t quite as robust of a mounting mechanism as I’d hoped they’d be… and over time, the stepper motor tends to “sag” a bit, resulting in a bit too much friction between the motor, the coupler, and the underlying knob, causing the mechanism to stall out until someone manually goes and reseats it…

Involving MQTT and HA can sometimes get frustrating too; having your AC not working properly if there's a problem on a Linux machine can suck. If this becomes a problem in practice, iirc ESPHome also has a thermostat component, and temperature sensors are really cheap and easy to wire in, so you could do it all on the microcontroller pretty easily in a low-code way. But if this part is working, no need to mess with it.

> Imprecisely yeet the stepper motor all the way left/right, toggling the target temp between “really really hot” or “really really cold”

> Option 2 certainly is the “jankier” of the two options, given that it relies on a second-order property (target temp) to power the unit on/off… but hey - whatever’s easier, right?

Isn't this basically how a thermostat works? I.e. there is a component that is binary on/off, and a thermometer is used to decide to switch on or off.

I was in a similar situation with my apartment PTAC unit, but mine has thermostat terminals — I would not be surprised if this one does too. I was able to hook up an Ecobee thermostat, with the downside being that it's way more expensive than OP's solution.

I don't get how so many large buildings in NYC and Beijing (two cities that I've personally visited) use independent little AC units like the PTAC or minisplit types. A couple per apartment, peppered over the outer walls. Engineers intuition says surely a large central unit would be more efficient and effective.

Is it because of personal ownership reasons? Counterintuitive physics? Heat dissipation limitations on the roof?

Can someone with more knowledge clue me in?

OT: I'm looking for some way to control my AC via Infrared. I have a few pretty standard AC units with IR remotes. The ones with a display on it, that just transmit all the settings on the remote via IR on every button press.

Some device I can mount in proximity, that controls the AC, but preferably also has a temperature and humidity sensor included.

that's a fun project. i'd be a little concerned about the servos failing to fully switch the switches or placing wear on them, maybe a dangerous failure mode where it is switched into and left in an in-between state unattended that could lead to a fire hazard.

you can buy smart outlets with the correct connector, just look for 20A versions. (honeywell, at a minimum, sells one).

https://prod-edam.honeywell.com/content/dam/honeywell-edam/h...

I have to say. Nice work. I spent years wanting to build something like this to integrate to these systems. I never did but have spent years thinking about this. So, nice work and really appreciate your motivation.

Assuming running a dual hose inverter portable AC isn't against the lease agreement it would probably pay for itself based on the power usage. Pretty neat hack regardless.

You need to 3D print a bracket. That's what will give you the last 10-20%.

Oh, hey, I'm the author!

Happy to answer any questions :)

I'm pretty sure doing janky things to the AC you don't own is a lease violation.

I'd gladly let them keep the security deposit so that evil companies like RealPage don't blacklist me.

Another option would be to install a smart timer in the outlet. However, you need to ensure that the heat won't automatically go on when the device is turned off, and sometimes the outlets are non-standard formats.

Hey Siri, can I afford a home loan?